Monday a small crew gathered at Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua for a benefit dinner for Midnight Run, the group I direct. Mark Golodetz had organized the group and provided a unique centerpiece for the evening, a tasting of the '70 de Pez and the individual components of the cepage. People brought some wine, we had a nice dinner and enjoyed:
1992 Guigal Condrieu Floral as expected, apricot/peach fruit seems just a little flat. Certainly hanging on while one might think it should be dead, but doesn't change my general feeling that I like Viognier young. To be fair, it actually seemed to put on a little weight/life in the glass. B1998 Jacob's Creek Semillon- Chardonnay Not much on the nose, moderate fig and melon fruit on the palate. Drink up, quick. B-/C+
2000 JM Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Tropical fruit with a squirt of pineapple, integrated oak adding an attractive toasted-nut note. Very nice village Puligny, I'd drink this happily anytime. B+/A-1970 de Pez (St. Estephe)- whole and in components Background: Before the assemblage of the 1970 de Pez, the owner M. Dousson was persuaded by his exporter to bottle half barrels of the varietals, which were then used by the L'Ecole du Vin at Chateau Loudenne. When Loudenne was sold, Mark Golodetz was allowed to buy the remaining sets. This was the last set. Truly a unique chance to taste the components of the cepage 30+ years later.
1970 de Pez Cabernet Franc Flowery nose, dark fruit with grass and green pepper. OK. B1970 de Pez Merlot This seems the most tired red wine of the night to me, subdued dark plum fruit, a bit of decay/forest floor. B-
1970 de Pez Cabernet Sauvignon Whoa, baby, this one's not tired. Mellow yet vibrant cassis fruit; tannins still present though resolved; complex nose of saddle leather, vanilla, and earth. A-/B+1970 de Pez - final assemblage Nice wine, though doesn't seem to have quite the vibrancy of the CS. Seems more tannic than the 3 components, which seems logically impossible. Quite a decent Bordeaux, smoky nose and nice dark fruit. B+
1990 de Pez (St. Estephe) Fully mature, dark cherry fruit with just a hint of mushroom/forest floor. Medium-bodied, a bit short on the finish, Soft, easy, and sweet; this one has less of a future than the '70 assemblage or CS (ownership of de Pez changed by this vintage). B1970 Ducru Beaucaillou Beautifully balanced structured wine -acid, tannin, and fruit in harmony. Earth, leather, and cedar seamlessly integrated with mature (but not over-the-hill) black fruit. Easily the WOTN for me. A
1984 Burgess At first I think there's a bit of VA here (though this had been decanted), but whatever I was getting blew off. Plenty of American oak, raspberry fruit with a lot of mint and anise. Big contrast to the Ducru. B/B+Despite a wedding going on downstairs, very good wine service at Kittle House. I quite enjoyed my first taste of elk, though Jill Levy shared her rabbit and I found it even tastier. Nice cheese tray of robiola, manchego, cheddar, serra, and chimay bierre.
A fun night with good people, for a good cause. Thanks to everyone, especially Mark for all his efforts.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale
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