TN: Deconstructing the "70 de Pez

Monday a small crew gathered at Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua for a benefit dinner for Midnight Run, the group I direct. Mark Golodetz had organized the group and provided a unique centerpiece for the evening, a tasting of the '70 de Pez and the individual components of the cepage. People brought some wine, we had a nice dinner and enjoyed:

1992 Guigal Condrieu Floral as expected, apricot/peach fruit seems just a little flat. Certainly hanging on while one might think it should be dead, but doesn't change my general feeling that I like Viognier young. To be fair, it actually seemed to put on a little weight/life in the glass. B

1998 Jacob's Creek Semillon- Chardonnay Not much on the nose, moderate fig and melon fruit on the palate. Drink up, quick. B-/C+

2000 JM Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Tropical fruit with a squirt of pineapple, integrated oak adding an attractive toasted-nut note. Very nice village Puligny, I'd drink this happily anytime. B+/A-

1970 de Pez (St. Estephe)- whole and in components Background: Before the assemblage of the 1970 de Pez, the owner M. Dousson was persuaded by his exporter to bottle half barrels of the varietals, which were then used by the L'Ecole du Vin at Chateau Loudenne. When Loudenne was sold, Mark Golodetz was allowed to buy the remaining sets. This was the last set. Truly a unique chance to taste the components of the cepage 30+ years later.

1970 de Pez Cabernet Franc Flowery nose, dark fruit with grass and green pepper. OK. B

1970 de Pez Merlot This seems the most tired red wine of the night to me, subdued dark plum fruit, a bit of decay/forest floor. B-

1970 de Pez Cabernet Sauvignon Whoa, baby, this one's not tired. Mellow yet vibrant cassis fruit; tannins still present though resolved; complex nose of saddle leather, vanilla, and earth. A-/B+

1970 de Pez - final assemblage Nice wine, though doesn't seem to have quite the vibrancy of the CS. Seems more tannic than the 3 components, which seems logically impossible. Quite a decent Bordeaux, smoky nose and nice dark fruit. B+

1990 de Pez (St. Estephe) Fully mature, dark cherry fruit with just a hint of mushroom/forest floor. Medium-bodied, a bit short on the finish, Soft, easy, and sweet; this one has less of a future than the '70 assemblage or CS (ownership of de Pez changed by this vintage). B

1970 Ducru Beaucaillou Beautifully balanced structured wine -acid, tannin, and fruit in harmony. Earth, leather, and cedar seamlessly integrated with mature (but not over-the-hill) black fruit. Easily the WOTN for me. A

1984 Burgess At first I think there's a bit of VA here (though this had been decanted), but whatever I was getting blew off. Plenty of American oak, raspberry fruit with a lot of mint and anise. Big contrast to the Ducru. B/B+

Despite a wedding going on downstairs, very good wine service at Kittle House. I quite enjoyed my first taste of elk, though Jill Levy shared her rabbit and I found it even tastier. Nice cheese tray of robiola, manchego, cheddar, serra, and chimay bierre.

A fun night with good people, for a good cause. Thanks to everyone, especially Mark for all his efforts.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams
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Reply to
Michael Pronay

Fascinating - thanks for the notes!

Reply to
Bill Spohn
[] ] 1992 Guigal Condrieu ] Floral as expected, apricot/peach fruit seems just a little flat. Certainly ] hanging on while one might think it should be dead, but doesn't change my ] general feeling that I like Viognier young. To be fair, it actually seemed to ] put on a little weight/life in the glass. B ]

I wonder if the vintage played a big role, too. '92 was no thriller. A '91 might be considerably fresher.

[] ] ] 1970 de Pez (St. Estephe)- whole and in components ] Background: Before the assemblage of the 1970 de Pez, the owner M. Dousson was ] persuaded by his exporter to bottle half barrels of the varietals, which were ] then used by the L'Ecole du Vin at Chateau Loudenne. When Loudenne was sold, ] Mark Golodetz was allowed to buy the remaining sets. This was the last set. ] Truly a unique chance to taste the components of the cepage 30+ years later. ] ] 1970 de Pez Cabernet Franc ] Flowery nose, dark fruit with grass and green pepper. OK. B ] ] 1970 de Pez Merlot ] This seems the most tired red wine of the night to me, subdued dark plum fruit, ] a bit of decay/forest floor. B- ] ] 1970 de Pez Cabernet Sauvignon ] Whoa, baby, this one's not tired. Mellow yet vibrant cassis fruit; tannins ] still present though resolved; complex nose of saddle leather, vanilla, and ] earth. A-/B+ ] ] 1970 de Pez - final assemblage ] Nice wine, though doesn't seem to have quite the vibrancy of the CS. Seems more ] tannic than the 3 components, which seems logically impossible. Quite a decent ] Bordeaux, smoky nose and nice dark fruit. B+ ]

I'd love to do this experiment. Have done with barrel samples, but never like this!

Any info on the final assemblage percentages? How about the average vine ages for each cepage? For me that would have a big impact on how each held together in the long term.

I usually find strong grassiness in CF a sign of being long in the tooth.

][] ] 1984 Burgess ] At first I think there's a bit of VA here (though this had been decanted), but ] whatever I was getting blew off. Plenty of American oak, raspberry fruit with a ] lot of mint and anise. Big contrast to the Ducru. B/B+ ]

Interesting on the VA, I've never noticed it with this. I've got a couple of these left, haven't tasted it for several years. Do you think they should be put out of their misery?

cheers,

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

Great post, sounds like you were in luck's way... ;-)

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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Reply to
Mike Tommasi

Who happened to be the late Martin Bamford of Gilbey/IDV, residing at Ch. Loudenne.

Michael Broadbent says "one barrel each", which seems much more logic.

M.

Reply to
Michael Pronay

Don't know whether he is correct. Michael Broadbent who tasted the wines in 1972 from cask and 1976 in bottles reports (in his "Great Vintage Wine Book" from 1980, p. 123) the blend being 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 5% petit verdot.

M.

Reply to
Michael Pronay

] snipped-for-privacy@aol.comdamnspam (Dale Williams) wrote: ] ] > BTW, I should have mentioned that Mark thought the final ] > assembly of '70 de Pez was 8% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot, 62% Cab ] > Sauv. ] ] Don't know whether he is correct. Michael Broadbent who tasted the ] wines in 1972 from cask and 1976 in bottles reports (in his "Great ] Vintage Wine Book" from 1980, p. 123) the blend being 70% cabernet ] sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 5% petit verdot. ]

Thanks for that, both Dale and Michael. I seem to have missed Dale's earlier post. Indeed, wouldn't 30% merlot be very high for a St Estephe of that era?

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

I'm pretty sure that Cos ran 30+ % even in 70s, and HAut-Marbuzet more than that. That being said, I was reflecting my memory of Mark's memory. One or the other could be wrong.

Though if there was Petit Verdot in the mix, why wouldn't they have bottled as part of the set?

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

] >Indeed, wouldn't 30% merlot be very high for a St Estephe ] >of that era? ] ] I'm pretty sure that Cos ran 30+ % even in 70s, and HAut-Marbuzet more than ] that. That being said, I was reflecting my memory of Mark's memory. One or the ] other could be wrong. ]

This is very interesting. I suppose I've always made an assumption that because of the "virility" of the appellation, there was a lower amount of merlot generally used in St. Estephe.

Has my tongue been lying all these years? (Wouldn't be the first time!) :) Or maybe I've just imagined a trend based on a small sample set....

] Though if there was Petit Verdot in the mix, why wouldn't they have bottled as ] part of the set? ]

Hmm, perhaps a very small %? Good question, though.

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

In fact they *have* bottled it, M.B. gives TNs. Don't know why the PV was missing in this peculiar set.

M.

Reply to
Michael Pronay

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