TN Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 1990, Charles Joguet

This bottle of Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 1990, Charles Joguet, had been properly stored since release. Many red Chinons made from Cabernet Franc are rather light, and sometimes seem closer to a pink wine than a red one. The cool climate typical of many years in parts of the Loire likely has much to do with this. However Cabernet Franc made in warm climates, including California, can be very dark and concentrated indeed. The year 1990 was very good in most of France including the Loire. This Chinon is very dark still and reminds one of the concentration of the Rhone. It is very concentrated, has much fruit of dark cherry and plum character, spice, and a taste of grape skins from old vines. There is enough acid to balance. The finish is quite long. If one had tasted only the usual commercial Chinons that get shipped to the US, you likely would not even think of this wine as coming from the Loire, but rather from many miles south. Apparently Chinons of this quality can take and benefit from several years of age. I have tasted a few commercial Chinons that were several years old, and time did not treat them kindly.

There has been considerable fuss recently about how global warming could make it too warm for the traditional red wines of Bordeaux. However, it could also be that such warming would make wines such as this Chinon possible on a regular basis as well as very full Pinot Noirs in Champagne.

Thanks for the interesting post, which I have not snipped.

Indeed, the warming trend, but also changes (some locals say reversions) in style have led to many more robust Chinons. My Dad remembers Chinon fondly from the war years as a delightfully light quaffer that "doesn't travel." (I always half assume that the ambiance that makes the experience is what doesn't travel, but YMMV. Certainly some very low alcohol wines like traditional bubbly Clairette de Die travel poorly at around 7 degrees.) I am usually pressed to get in some lighter Chinon for his visits, as I tend to favor the beefier sort.

I am no particular fan of Joguet, but it is certain that good Chinon from '89 and '90 is drinking wonderfully just now. As well as the '90 I have a few bottles of Lambert '86; that's the father of now owner Patrick Lambert.

A great example of a Chinon 'vin de garde' is made by Johann Spelty, his "Clos de Neuilly." I had a couple of cases of the '89 -- a legendary vintage -- put away, but they were stolen from my cellar in Paris. Probably the worst loss of the theft, they really only took what was close to the door. This wine is only made in exceptional years, although the regular Spelty cuvées are not slouches either.

As for warming, there is truth to the rumor that the Champenois are buying up land in the Suffolk south downs; I know of 2 vineyards in Normandy even! (Not that you'd want to try their products! :)) Of course we will have to wait until hell freezes over for the INAO to allow anything other than Cabernet Franc to be called Chinon. The mere suggestion of it is a good way to shock the locals.

-E