Last night SOBER met at Andy's house. Last spring, someone had spotted an enticing offer of Mongeard-Mugnerets, we had decided to buy as a group. Andy offered to host, and we agreed to do a bit of a potluck (though Andy of course had most of the load).
I picked up Craig and we arrived to find almost everyone there in kitchen. I helped Craig with peeling parsnips, and decided if you're going to peel parsnips, you might as well drink 1988 Moet and Chandon Dom Perignon (thanks Andy!). Full-bodied, crisp, lemons and a bit of herb. Just a touch of yeast, pretty tasty to me. B+ We also enjoyed a couple of pizzas (Margherita and pepperoni) that Andy and Antoine (chef friend of Andy's filling in for absent Dan) had prepared.
We moved to table. In addition to the reds, we had a flight of whites that Craig had found at auction:
Flight One (with a lovely terrine with pistachios that Antoine had made) (after initial sniffs of all three it was clear that these were younger than the last 4 or 5 bottles of 98 and 99 BdM I've had!)
1986 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Nose of pears, hazelnuts, and pineapple. Sweet fruit on palate, long finish with stony mineral notes. I think I liked better than most others, though at end I think Mark also named it his favorite. A-1989 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Sweet pears, easy drinking, maybe a bit of heat on finish. Pears, lemon curd, and vanilla. Nice enough wine, but seemed simple and maybe a touch tired compared to its flightmates. B
1992 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne (I think this wasn't part of the auction lot, but a contribution from Andy) Floral, young, full-bodied, still a touch of oak. Good, classy, long. B +/A-Flight Two (with a beautiful fennel, orange, avocado, and tarragon shrimp salad from John)
1978 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Funny wine. Started out with a bright intense nose, floral and limey. But with only a few minutes in glass it seemed to fade and really show it's age. A couple of people thought it corked but it didn't show in my glass. B+ to start, B- after a while.1983 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Dramatic nose, hazelnuts and honey, a bit fat/low acid. Funny finish, I think Mark called it with "lactic." Still, good nose and attack. Favorite of many tasters. B+
1985 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne No debate about this one. Corked!We moved on to reds, Tim's mushroom/stilton gallette (I want that recipe!) going with a loner, while Mark was testing his beef:
1990 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos Vougeot Warm, giving, with sweet 1990 fruit but without any jammy/overripe/ pruney notes. Medium-bodied, black cherries and forest floor. One of the better 90s I've had in last few years. A-/B+Flight Three (with perfect tenderloin with a peppercorn cream sauce with a parsnip/potato puree)
1989 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes Low acids, a bit cheesey and pruney. OK, but not especially appealing to me, some others liked much more. B-1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes This however I really liked. Clean, delineated, minerals, spice, sandalwood. Nice length. A-/B+
Flight Four (with my panko crusted duck legs)
1989 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux I initially wrote funky, tired, chalky, weird finish. But then the more sensitive pointed it was corked, and once I went looking I found the TCA.1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux Spicy, fresh, minerally, loamy. Good length, and in a really good place. Drinking well but no hurry. My ROTN by a hair A-
Then came the cheese course, provided by Mike (hard) and Cathleen (soft). Great assortment, by faves being the Ossau-Iraty, a prime Comte (from fromage.com), and an a pointe Epoisses - but other interesting stuff like a one with walnut in rind, a crottin, etc.
1991 Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Nose is a bit lifted, but that seems to blow off somewhat after a bit. Warm fruit, tannic, good length. I like, but needs time. B+/A- (with potential for better)Andy is ever the generous host, and decided we needed a little sweet finisher. At my house that might be a Loire from the 80s, but he took John down to choose and came up with 1959 Staatsweinguter "Steinberger" Riesling Beerenauslese (Rheingau). Whoa! Apricots, honey, nuts. Intense, yet with a real lightness. Good acids, loooooooonnng finish, what a way to end evening, incredible generosity from Andy. A
Quite a night, I only wish I'd had a chauffeur so I could have indulged more. Lots of disagreements on the wines, which makes things funner to me. Excellent job on the food from everyone.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.