Ausbruch (pinging Michael Pronay)

Feb 14, 2006 35 Replies

Salut/Hi Michael Pronay,

le/on Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:47:04 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

I was about to comment earlier, but fortunately read down the thread before coming in.

Istvan's remark is both correct and misleading at the same time.

In general, Tokaji Aszu has always been made by the maceration of botrytised grapes in either wine or must - with one exception, which is that which gives the finest Aszu wine - Tokaji Aszu Eszencia. In THIS wine and this wine alone, the botrytised grapes are pressed and fermented as for a TBA or a properly picked Sauternes or Monbazillac (Cru Barréjats did 31 pickings in Oct 1997, just for your info) However I think it's also fair to say that normally in Tokaj botrytised grapes have a significantly higher sugar content than either Sauternes/monbazillac grapes, or beerenauslese grapes. This very high sugar content implies that you tend both to get very low yields and also have great problems in fermentation, which is why, incidentally, Hungarian wine law insists that the non macerated wines be kept in barrel longer than the others. Maceration in wine/must solves - or at least eases both problems.

In all other Tokaji Aszu wines, maceration does take place. Even in Szepsy's Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos, which is about as good as you can get for a Tokaji without the word "eszencia".

So while it's true that for the very finest Tokaji sweet wines, no maceration takes place, that's putting the bar pretty high in respect of "great".

ATB Ian

Stefan is managing a winery in the El Dorado wine region- this is an area about 1 hour from Sacramento and maybe 2 hours from Napa. We went last weekend for the wedding, and Eduard flew in from Austria, so it was a great occasion for a reunion as well as to check out Stefan's new venture. It's a very beautiful area, and the winery facilities are quite impressive. Stefan said it reminds him of Styria 10 years ago. Lots of potential.

We chat with him every few days, so I will be sure to pass along your greetings. e.

The person responsible for the wein-plus glossary (Norbert Tischlmayer of ... Vienna! Perhaps you know him?) tells he has updated it and himself learned something new :-) Anders

I know Norbert only from wein-plus.de mailing list, I haven't met him in person yet. Since he is not exactly a member of the wine press (although he could be, if he wanted), I don't see him at press tastings & such events.

M.

I beg to differ, Ian - at least according to the info Istvan gave me. When I asked him about maceration, he rolled his eyes and exclaimed: "Oh no, never!"

M.

Salut/Hi Michael Pronay,

le/on Mon, 27 Feb 2006 18:29:20 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

Then I don't know what he's up to, because a) in 2000 he did without question, and at Orémus (no slouch either for Tokaji Aszu and whose wine was recently (according to Xtian) judged best for that year). I saw the machines they use, like large washing machines. It has _always_ been the tradition to use maceration, for a load of reasons. I even understood it was written into the rules for making Aszu.

Ok things do evove, but it's fair to say that the very concept of "Putts" was a measure of how many baskets (puttony) of nobly rotted grapes were used per gonc (barrel). So if less than the capacity of the barrel were added, it's obvious that the rest has to be must or wine. When I was last there the debate was over which of these should be used. The tradition is divided. Wine can give a higher final alcohol lever with residual sugar, while must makes it easier to say "it's 1996" or whatever, because you aren't tempted to use last year's dry wine.

I'm mystified here Michael. Is there any chance that there's a misunderstanding?

Most certainly, Ian. I will put it on my agenda for June 2007 at Vinexpo.

Btw, I just realized that Isvan will be in Vienna next June (on 12th, at 14:30 hrs to be exact):

Hey, there's even an English version:

M.

Salut/Hi Michael Pronay,

le/on Sat, 04 Mar 2006 15:43:40 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

I saw that there's a "Michael Próney" hosting a tasting of Champagnes.. any relation? (:-))))))

Seriously, if you do happen to get a chance to talk to him, I'd be grateful if you'd quiz him on this. Given that even the traditional world of Tokaj winemaking has been buffeted by the winds of change I suppose that they _could_ have dropped the maceration merely using bunches with less botrytis or simply grapes that were less dried out to get the sugar levels for 4 and

5 putts. But to me that would blur the difference between Szamarodni and Aszu and would eliminate Forditás. If it were anyone other than you, Michael and Istvan, I'd have dismissed the whole thing as nonsense.

ATB Ian

Grrr ... I just mailed them (and also told them it's not "terroire").

M.

We have not yet made our schedule for Vievinum, but I think attendance at your Champagne tasting will be mandatory!

e.

Try to register as soon as possible. Tell ÖWM people in time that you want to attend.

M.

Question- I just assumed these would be Austrian. Is "Champagne" a misnomer in this case?

e.

Sorry, no.

No. "Champagne" within EU wine & food designation can only have two meanings

1) sparkling wine from the "Champagne Viticole" region in France 2) wine destillate from the Grande and Petite Champagne region in Cognac

I do know that we have wonderfull sparkling wines here in Austria, but in this case I present cuvées de prestige from the region 1).

M.

Oh yes, I do know what "Champagne" should mean. I thought perhaps it was an error on the website, like "terroire".

Sounds lovely in any event (just perhaps a bit less useful for our import business)

e.

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